DE VI - The Pony Express Trip Report

Scott B.

Adventurist
Another very successful Desert Expedition trip!

5100 miles driven (500+ on dirt), 16 states passed through, 15 nights in the teardrop. Great company, great food, great trails - and snow! And let's not forget the metric ton of dust on everything!

We kept a daily log and will be posting it one day at a time with pictures.

Sit back, relax (and be patient) and enjoy.

Here we go...
 
Looking forward to your story. What part of Georgia are you from? I was born in Albany, had kin in Albany, Cordelia, and Dalton.
 
Looking forward to your story. What part of Georgia are you from? I was born in Albany, had kin in Albany, Cordelia, and Dalton.

I am north of Atlanta - used to be a small town, now solid city all the way to Atlanta. :(

I did live in Thousand Oaks for 18 years...
 
Day One & Two - St. Joseph MO to Sydney, NB

Our Pony Express exploration began in the great city of St. Joseph MO founded by Joseph Robidoux, 4th generation fur trader. In St. Joseph, we first admired the Pony Express monument and then strolled by war veteran memorials in the park.

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The Pony Express Museum at the original pony express stables was well attended and quite informative. The house where Jesse James was murdered was a short walk away. We interrupted our Pony Express exploration for lunch at Ground Round. The Patee Museum, home of the original Pony Express offices, offered a stroll through bygone times, including a carousel, an old steam engine, a grand ballroom visited by Abraham Lincoln, Mark Twain, and countless others, and a showcase of the Robidoux Hotel, which had been demolished in the 1970s.

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Last stop of the day was the Ferry boat monument along the Missouri River where Pony Express riders crossed to begin the 2000 mile westward ride.



The next day we had a quick breakfast, closed camp, and headed west across the Missouri River into Kansas following the Pony Express route along KS 36.

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Stopped for a walk around the Hollenberg station outside of Hanover. Developed and operated by an innovative German settler to sell goods to westward bound emigrants and provide rest and provisions for Pony Express riders, the weathered six-room building constructed in 1858 still stands atop a hill overlooking flat campgrounds, farm fields, and stream beds. This building is in fact, one of the last original Pony Express Stations standing today.

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Next stop, northward into Nebraska was the Rock Creek station where we mused through the museum and then walked the grounds finding a reconstructed cabin and post office amid the wagon trail ruts.

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We piled back into the trucks to find present-day Dickey's Barbeque in Troy NE. Onward to Sidney we ran into a sudden storm that we later found out displayed 5 twisters visible outside of Cabela's home store. The rain pelted and we wondered if the wind would pick us up and throw us back into Kansas. After the storm subsided, we arrived safely at the Cabela's camp. Luckily we hit free-pie Monday at Perkins and brought pie slices back to camp to enjoy sometime in the next day or so.

Total distance traversed was 525 miles in 10 hours drive time including Pony Express stops.
 
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Holy crap, I thought I covered some ground when on a trip, you must have been hauling the mail while you were on the road to avg 52.5 MPH over that distance, including stops.

Definitely a cool trip. Never occurred to me to follow the Pony Express route, I may have to add that trip to my bucket list. Reading about the Pony Express years ago, I remember the author saying that they preferred to hire orphans for Pony Express riders due to high mortality rates.
 
Holy crap, I thought I covered some ground when on a trip, you must have been hauling the mail while you were on the road to avg 52.5 MPH over that distance, including stops.

Definitely a cool trip. Never occurred to me to follow the Pony Express route, I may have to add that trip to my bucket list. Reading about the Pony Express years ago, I remember the author saying that they preferred to hire orphans for Pony Express riders due to high mortality rates.

Most of route was on I-80. :( Very little of the original is remaining...

They hired 200 men, including 80 riders. The riders ranged in age from 11 (not initially a rider) to 41 years of age. During the 18 months of operation, only 1 rider was killed. They feared many would die, due to the terrain, Indians, etc., but their fear turned out to be unfounded.
 
The original Pony Express stables in St. Joseph

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The house where Jessie James was shot (moved from its original location)

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The monument, at the place in the river where the mail crossed by boat and was carried by horse to Sacramento, CA.

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Another view of Hollenberg Station

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Another view of Rock Creek Station

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Day Three - I-80 Road Trip

Cool rain showered us through the night. We are mightily thankful for our hard sided tent - teardrop- on such nights as we slept warm and dry. Upon awakening, we packed up and hit the highway westbound for Wyoming. First sighting of snow fence was at the Nebraska /Wyoming state line. Speed limit jumped to 80 mph so as long as the highway is clear of snow, you can really get down the road in good time. It wasn't too much later that we saw snow piled along the snow fences here in May! Sometime past Laramie weren't we surprised when seeing another teardrop-like trailer approach that it was our expedition buddy Martin and his wife returning home to Denver from a trek to Washington state. We pulled into Green River WY to grab some tacos not far from the visitor center we had stopped at 2 years prior on our Flaming Gorge trip. Continuing into Utah we made the pass through the mountains overlooking Salt Lake City. Once past Salt Lake City traffic we slipped around the southern tip of Salt Lake. The salt flats continued all the way west across the state to the Nevada state line. We made a quick stop at the Bonneville Salt Flats to fulfill one of Scott's dreams, seeing the track where speed records were set.

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Crossing into Nevada at West Wendover, we found the KOA campground where we joined up with Sib and Gary. We dined together at one of the many casinos and retired for the night expecting Frenchie's arrival by midnight.

Total distance traversed 600 miles in 12 hours.
 
Day 4 - Group convenes and off we go

We arose early, counted heads to make sure all were present, grabbed breakfast at the local casino (only game in town), got provisions, and studied the maps.

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Agreeing on a path, we headed out westward bound on I-80 to Elko to get off paved roads. We turned north on 225 in Elko and then west onto the road to Swales mountain. Here the adventure began. Six vehicles, six gps's and not much agreement among them. The drive through mountains and valleys, around hills and through open pastures afforded us many views of Swales mountain but we never found the road up to the mountain itself. We did see several ranches few and far between. And the fields were in bloom!

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So there were lots of cows in the open range and they must not be used to seeing teardrops in their neck of the ranch because they always stopped to get a good look at us as we passed.

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After lunch, and note -- it's always hard to tear away from Frenchie's stories, as you can see how engrossed we all were -- but we did and headed onward to Swales mountain.

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Lucky for me, Scott got sleepy and after remarking he could use a nap, I offered to drive and was afforded the opportunity. My first trail driving on our expeditions and oh -what fun it was. Sure, it takes focused attention on path conditions, ruts, tire placement, 3 axles, gear shifting, keeping off the brake and being in the right gear, but I had the best instructor sitting at my side. After yet another choice in route and upon deciding to turn around, we happened upon the perfect campsite flat and roomy enough for us all. We called it quits for the day, set up camp, and settled in for some snacks, cranberry drinks and light-hearted conversation. Then came my favorite part of every day -- watching Scott prepare dinner which tonight would be grilled steaks and mushrooms with zucchini and onions, while sipping on Keith's cranberry juice and partaking in the storytelling.

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We retired after showers under a beautiful star lit sky. Camp was at 5700' altitude, we had traveled some 35 miles off road in 4.5 hours.
 
Day 5 - Roads Not Maintained In Winter

Cool morning bid us out of our teardrop to cook breakfast, pack up and find our way back to the bridge on the opposite side of Swales Mountain. Our route was sometimes elusive with even the 2-track path disappearing into the vegetation.

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Prettiest drive ever through fields of Indian paint brush, asters, and many others too numerous to name (especially since none of us knew the floral names) - purples, pinks, yellows, and whites. We finally came upon the bridge - our starting place yesterday- some 55 miles looping around Swales mountain.

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We made our way back to NV 225 and headed northbound for Dinner Station. The turn of the century house had suffered fire damage and was restored by its current day owners. Around the turn of last century, 1900, upwards of 75 people per day frequented the place for a meal and a rest for their horses. Today the beautiful stone building is occupied and is a working ranch.

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Next destination was Cornocopia mine but our trail ended in a locked gate so we headed to Humboldt National Forest to find a camp spot for the night. Climbing through the mountains on a path that the Benchmark map book cautioned "road not maintained in winter" we encountered snow and then happened upon an impassable snowbank covering the road.

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Luckily an alternate path with a muddy slide down a steep hill, across a stream and back up a steep climb and we were on the other side of the snow bank.

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Rounding the next bend we came upon yet another snow drift, this one flatter and shallower than the previous. We pulled out the shovels and dug a trench for the right side tire path to keep the trucks from sliding down the canyon while crossing the snow drift.

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Gary was the first one to cross and while we lined up to follow, he radioed back that at the next bend, he had come upon the biggest snow drift yet which would not be passable, not in the winter, not even in June. The "roads not maintained in winter" warning which we didn't think applied to us June travelers came into play.

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So, after getting the trailer turned around, we made our way back down the steep descent, over the stream, and up the muddy slope with a little help from Frenchie and a trusty tow rope (and this is really important -- if one can remember -- low range can be extremely helpful in such places!).

Retracing our path to a lower elevation, we found camp at an embankment near a rushing stream with snow at a safe distance away. Sipping on cranberry drinks (yes, again!), we enjoyed a hot meal of black beans, chicken and rice. The evening was short as night was upon us. Camp was at 7200', and we had traversed 45 miles.

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I'm really enjoying this trip report. Keep writing Laura, um I mean Scott.

-Andy
 
I'm really enjoying this trip report. Keep writing Laura, um I mean Scott.

-Andy

Yeah, yeah, yeah....

Yes, Laura did write the report - with my help.

It is a lot of work leading 6 trucks, and trying to take pictures, listening to Frenchie - I can't do everything. :p
 
Day 6 - Down in the valley...

Fresh, hot-off-the-griddle blueberry pancakes for all started our day. The air was refreshingly cool with the view of nearby snowbanks. After calibrating with our maps...

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We made our way out of Humboldt National forest, through Jack Creek, south on NV 226 and back off-road onto 736 heading south for Austin NV (not TX) eventually. We passed through open ranges and coaxed the numerous cattle to free up road space so we could pass. Luckily we had the cow whisperer with us.

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We happened upon one cowboy working a herd and although he was hard at work, he made for a picturesque site. Look closely and you'll spot him just below the mountain range in the left side of this shot.

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The ranches, spread few and far between, looked spectacular and every now and then our journey on county roads took us right into the innermost workings of some of them.

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At mid day we stopped in Carlin for fuel, provisions, and a few tacos at the local Mexican restaurant. All refreshed, we headed south on NV 278 out of town back onto dirt at Palisade. Coming across a bridge built in 1902, we got out to inspect the condition of the lumber which looked to be original from last century. We could actually feel the boards give way under our feet as we walked across it.

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Deciding the bridge would hold every last one of us, we crossed and continued southbound into Frenchie Flat for a long straight dusty ride through the valley. Frenchie Flat felt like coming home so we found camp in Cottonwood canyon. Talk about inspirational -- nestled next to a mountain, with a running brook nearby, overlooking a valley, and mountains beyond, Frenchie treated us all to beef and bean burritos, Keith supplied the juice/spirits for the evening and we got to visit under the star-filled sky.

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As if that were not enough, we topped off the day with warm <private> showers (in Frenchie's shower tent) washing away the day's dust and sweat leaving each of us refreshingly cool. I'm not even going to mention the pesky mosquitos, nope, not me, not a word. There was talk of a UFO siting but nothing definitive. Camp was at 5100' 200 miles traversed.
 
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